Energy Efficient Cedar Shake Siding Buying Guide

Every energy efficient cedar shake siding buying guide starts with the same simple question. Can wood siding really help lower your power bill? The short answer is yes, if you choose it well and install it right. Cedar has natural air pockets in its grain. Those pockets slow the flow of heat. That is why old wood homes often feel warm in winter and cool in summer. This guide walks you through every step. You will learn why cedar shake matters, what to look for when you buy it, the types you can choose, what it costs, how to keep it in good shape, and how to stay safe during the work.

Why It Matters

Most home heat escapes through the walls. Siding is the skin of your house. A good skin cuts the load on your furnace and your air conditioner. Cedar shakes add a natural layer of insulation. The wood fibers hold tiny pockets of air. Air is a poor carrier of heat. So the wall passes heat more slowly in both directions.

Cedar also looks good. It has a warm red-brown tone and a rough hand-split face. Many buyers pick it for charm first and for savings second. But the savings are real. A tight cedar shake wall, backed by foam sheathing, can raise the R-value of your wall by a full point or more. That may sound small. Over ten winters, it adds up.

Wood is also a renewable choice. Cedar trees grow back. The siding stores carbon for as long as it stands on your house. Many green builders like that fact. Check project ideas at This Old House for more on wood siding in older homes.

What to Look For: Energy Efficient Cedar Shake Siding Buying Guide

Grade

Cedar shakes come in grades. Number 1 blue label is the top grade. It is straight, clear, and free of knots. It lasts longest and insulates best. Number 2 red label has more flaws. It costs less but may need more care. For energy savings, buy the best grade you can afford. Tight, straight shakes leave fewer gaps for air leaks.

Thickness and Width

Thicker shakes hold more air and slow heat better. Look for shakes that are three quarters of an inch at the butt. Wider shakes cover more wall per piece, which means fewer joints. Fewer joints mean fewer places for drafts.

Moisture Content

Dry shakes shrink less after they go up. Ask the seller for the moisture rating. Kiln-dried shakes are best. They hold their shape and seal tight against the wall.

Preservative Treatment

Cedar has natural oils that fight rot and bugs. Even so, treated shakes last longer. Pressure-treated or dip-treated shakes resist mold. Mold cuts the life of the wall and can harm indoor air. Ask for a treatment that is safe for homes and check guidance at Family Handyman.

Types and Options

Hand-Split Shakes

These are split by hand along the grain. The face is rough and uneven. They look old and rustic. The rough face also traps a thin layer of still air, which helps a little with insulation. They cost the most.

Tapersawn Shakes

These are sawn, not split. The face is smooth and flat. They look neat and even. They seal tight because each piece lies flat on the next. Many buyers choose them for a clean look with good draft control.

Resawn Shakes

Resawn shakes are sawn on both faces. They are thinner than hand-split shakes. They cost less. They give a smooth, uniform wall. For energy work, pair them with a foam backer board.

Cedar Shingle vs. Shake

People mix these two up. Shingles are sawn smooth and thin. Shakes are thicker and rougher. Shakes insulate a bit better because of their thickness. Shingles give a finer look. If you want the warmest wall, pick shakes.

Pre-Finished Shakes

Some makers sell shakes with stain already on all six sides. Back-primed shakes last longer because water cannot creep in from the back. A good finish also keeps the wood from drying out and cracking, which protects the tight seal.

Read brand options at CertainTeed and James Hardie for a sense of how fiber-cement lines compare when you weigh choices.

How to Choose for Energy Savings

Start with the wall behind the shakes. Even the best cedar cannot fix a bare, uninsulated wall. The smart path is a full wall system. First, seal air leaks in the old sheathing. Second, add rigid foam board. Third, add a rain screen gap so the shakes can dry. Fourth, hang the shakes. This stack gives you structure, insulation, drainage, and beauty in one wall. A rain screen also breaks the thermal bridge made by studs, which are a hidden path for heat loss in plain walls.

Ask these questions when you shop:

– What is the R-value gain per inch of the shake? – Is the wood certified from managed forests? – Does the maker offer a written warranty? – Can the shake be installed over foam? – What is the fire rating? Many towns ask for Class B or better.

You can find more buying tips at Bob Vila and The Spruce.

If cedar is not right for your budget, compare it with other walls. Our guide to brick veneer siding reviews and buying guide shows how masonry stacks up. Shoppers on a tight budget may like the budget friendly metal siding for homes buying guide. And if you live in a hot state, see the best cedar shake siding for southern states for warm-climate tips.

Cost and Price

Price depends on grade, thickness, and where you live. Here is a rough range for the United States.

– Material only: 4 to 9 dollars per square foot for good cedar shakes. – Installed over old sheathing: 8 to 14 dollars per square foot. – Full wall system with foam and rain screen: 12 to 18 dollars per square foot.

A 2,000 square foot home may need 2,500 square feet of siding once you count gables and waste. That puts a full job near 20,000 to 45,000 dollars. It is not cheap. But cedar lasts 30 to 50 years with care. Spread over that life, the yearly cost is fair.

Energy savings are harder to pin down. Most studies show a 5 to 10 percent cut in wall heat loss when you add cedar shakes over foam. If your yearly heat bill is 2,000 dollars, that is 100 to 200 dollars back each year. The real win is comfort. Rooms feel less drafty. Walls feel warm to the touch.

Get three bids. Ask each bidder to break out material, labor, foam, and trim. Watch for very low bids. They often skip the rain screen or use thin shakes. Check supply prices at Home Depot and Lowes before you sign.

Installation Basics

Good work matters more than good wood. A bad install wastes the energy value of cedar. Here is what a sound job looks like. Print this list and use it to check each bidder’s quote. A crew that skips a step is cutting your wall’s insulation as well as its life.

1. Strip or repair the old wall. Seal holes and cracks. 2. Add a water-resistive barrier. Tape the seams. 3. Add rigid foam, at least one inch thick, seams taped. 4. Add vertical furring strips to make a rain screen gap. 5. Hang the shakes with stainless steel nails. Never use plain steel. It rusts and stains the wood. 6. Keep a clear gap above windows and doors for flashing. 7. Stain or seal within a few weeks of the install.

Do not let a crew nail shakes straight to bare studs. That old method leaves no drainage. Wet shakes rot from the back. They also lose their seal as they warp.

Care and Upkeep

Cedar asks for a little care each year. In return, it stays tight and warm for decades.

– Wash the wall once a year with a garden hose and a soft brush. Do not use a hard pressure wash. It tears the wood fibers. – Look for cracked or curled shakes each spring. Replace bad pieces one by one. A single bad shake can let in drafts and water. – Re-stain every three to five years. A fresh coat keeps water out and the wood supple. – Trim bushes and trees back from the wall. Plants hold damp air against the shakes. – Keep gutters clean. Splashing water is the top killer of wood siding. – Check the caulk around windows and trim each fall.

If a shake turns black with mold, clean it with a wood-safe wash and let it dry fully before you re-stain. Trapped damp cuts the insulation value of the wood.

Safety

Siding work has real risks. Plan for them.

– Ladders and scaffolds: set them on firm ground. Keep three points of contact on a ladder. – Dust: cedar dust can irritate lungs and skin. Wear a mask and gloves when cutting. – Nails: stainless nails are sharp. Wear eye guards. – Fire: check your local code. Some dry areas limit wood siding or ask for fire-treated shakes. In wildfire zones, use a rated product. – Lead paint: if your old siding was painted before 1978, test for lead before you strip it. Hire a certified crew if lead is present.

For product safety notes, see the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Many hardware guides also cover safe tool use.

FAQ

How long does cedar shake siding last?

With care, 30 to 50 years. The key is stain, drainage, and quick repair of bad pieces. Neglected shakes may fail in 20 years.

Is cedar shake siding really energy efficient?

Yes, as part of a full wall system. The wood itself adds a small R-value boost. The bigger gain comes from the foam and air sealing you add under it during the job.

Can I install cedar shakes over my old siding?

Sometimes. The old wall must be sound, flat, and dry. Most pros strip the old siding so they can add foam and a rain screen. Stripping costs more but gives the best energy result.

What is the best stain for cedar shakes?

A breathable, water-repellent stain made for cedar. Oil-based and acrylic stains both work. Pick one with UV blockers so the sun does not gray the wood fast. Re-coat on schedule.

Does cedar shake attract bugs?

Cedar oils repel most bugs, but no wood is bug-proof. Keep the wall dry and the soil away from the first course of shakes. Treated shakes add extra defense. Dry shakes hold heat far better than damp ones.

How does cedar compare to vinyl for energy use?

Vinyl adds almost no insulation by itself. Insulated vinyl has a foam back, which helps. Cedar has natural mass and air pockets, and it pairs well with added foam. Both can work. Cedar wins on looks and on natural materials.

A Short Final Word

This energy efficient cedar shake siding buying guide comes down to one rule. Buy the best wood you can, then spend the real money on the wall behind it. Tight grade, thick shakes, dry wood, good treatment, foam, rain screen, and stainless nails. Do that, and your home will look like a storybook and feel snug in January. Take your time, get three bids, check each warranty in writing, and enjoy the result for decades.

References

Bob Vila. (n.d.). Home improvement advice. https://www.bobvila.com CertainTeed. (n.d.). Building materials and exterior products. https://www.certainteed.com Family Handyman. (n.d.). DIY home repair and maintenance. https://www.familyhandyman.com James Hardie. (n.d.). Fiber cement siding and exterior products. https://www.jameshardie.com Lowe’s. (n.d.). Home improvement products. https://www.lowes.com The Home Depot. (n.d.). Home improvement products. https://www.homedepot.com The Spruce. (n.d.). Home and garden advice. https://www.thespruce.com This Old House. (n.d.). Home renovation guidance. https://www.thisoldhouse.com U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. (n.d.). Product safety information. https://www.cpsc.gov